Pura Vida!

…I mean, what else can I title this entry?

I’ve been in Costa Rica for a about 10 days now. One week after finishing classes at Universidad del Atlántico, I jumped on a plane for San Jose, Costa Rica to meet up with a study abroad group from Lee University. For three weeks, I’m one of Dr. Steffanell’s (one of my college Spanish professors and the one who hooked me up with Barranquilla) “esclavitos blancos” (little white slaves), aka, teaching assistants. Along with Michael, Evan and Jacob, classmates of mine from Lee, I’m earning my keep on this trip by teaching some classes, running errands, and making weekend trip arrangements.

Unfortunately for the students, classes are Intensive with a capital “I”. They’re covering two semesters’ worth of material in three weeks. The bright side is that this is their classroom:




Our first weekend away, we went to a little Pacific town called Quepos, known for the nearby national park, Manuel Antonio. There, we stayed at Pura Vida Hostel, had a night of learning some salsa, merengue, and bachata moves, and spent a couple days relaxing on the idyllic beaches.





For the first few days here, I honestly didn’t feel like I was in Costa Rica. Our nice aparthotel could have been anywhere. Well, ok, eating rice and beans at least two meals a day is about as Costa Rican as it gets. But otherwise, I had the sense that Costa Rica is rather bland; standard, indistinctive Spanish; aside from the small historic center, architecture without much character…America’s handprint everywhere (Wal-mart, Subway, Wendy’s, TGI Friday’s, most people speak English to us before even allowing us to try our Spanish). It’s hard to explain but Colombia feels like Colombia, Peru feels like Peru, but Costa Rica is a different story. Well, as I hiked through the rainforest surrounded by monkeys, lizards and sloths, I definitely felt like I was experiencing the Costa Rica that travel guides boast. But I’m left wondering what constitutes the essence of Costa Rica. Its natural beauty is certainly worth being proud of, but has tourism and the influx of foreigners detracted from the local culture? More serious than the fact that study abroad students can get away with speaking very little Spanish and can remain in the comfort zone of their favorite stores and restaurants, I see the illegal drug sales and prostitution staying alive because of foreigners visiting. I’m a huge proponent of international travel and believe strongly in its enriching qualities, but unfortunately every coin has two sides, and sometimes exchanging cultures leaves ugly traces.

My intent here is not to slam Costa Rica by any means. In ten days I know I’ve seen only a tiny fraction of the country, culture and people. It’s just that the physical characteristics of any place are much more apparent than the culture—and in Costa Rica’s case, the stunning natural beauty seems to overshadow that of the people. But that just leaves the challenge of digging a little deeper.

Finals

I just finished grading final exams...and therefore the semester...and my job at the university. That's hard to wrap my mind around. I'm not ready to process the fact that my year in Colombia is coming to an end, so in the meantime here are a few exam comments worth mentioning:

-Did I fail at teaching writing if my third semester students' exam essays are full of "OMG! I wanna...I'm gonna..."?

-This line made my day: "This semester I've studied and learned full." See, "full" (pronounced "fool") has become a normal word in Colombian Spanish vocabulary, but it doesn't must mean the opposite of empty, but rather "a lot".

-In an oral exam, one student said, "This semester I've fallen in love with English." That brings joy to a teacher's heart :)

"Last one's a rotten egg."

As I opened the egg carton, they all looked the same. Different shades and spots, but nothing suspicious from the outside. They all looked fresh and omelette-ready. As SOON as I cracked open the rotten one, though, there was no doubt. The smell was absolutely repugnant and I couldne´t get the trash out fast enough. Beyond that, I kinda lost my appetite for eggs for a while.

It's not that hard to look like a good Christian on the outside. We can say and do the "right" things on autopilot. But what about when we're cracked open--what's inside? Is it appealing or revolting?

I want to live up to my Grandpa´s words: "You´re a goooooood egg."

More than sparrows.

Do you ever have one of those times when God seems to relentlessly confront you with a theme or issue? When your study of the Bible, sermons you hear, and conversations with friends come together in such a way that it leaves you thinking, “OK, I get it. This is something I need to deal with.”

Lately, that theme for me has been

Worry.

James 4. Matthew 6. Luke 12. These passages remind me that worrying is never acceptable. Why? Because God is good and all-knowing. He knows what I need before I ask, and as a loving Father he will provide. Because “running after these things [“stuff,” essentially]” is futile. Because my life is a vapor and I don’t know what tomorrow will hold. Because intimacy with God is much more important than having pleasant circumstances.

God has further reinforced this theme through a book called “Loving God With All Your Mind” by Elizabeth George; there’s a great section called Winning over Worry. In the most recent meeting of the small group I lead at the university, we watched and discussed this video, which is a powerful illustration about our tendency to be discontent. The last line is quite poignant and reminds us to focus on the Giver, not the gift.

So rather than freak out about where I am going to live and how I’m going to get a job, or about how a friend seems to continually make destructive decisions, or about how I’m going to stretch my last paycheck over two unpaid months in Colombia, or really a whole host of “concerns,” that constantly invade my mind-----I’m asking the Lord to help me grow in trusting Him. I haven’t found the “secret” yet, but I do know that it’s a moment-by-moment process of letting go of my worry (and desire to control my life) and resting in God’s leadership and provision.

Aprendiendo

One of my students has made it her personal mission to get me reading Spanish literature. Each week, she brings me several poems or short stories by Jorge Luis Borges, Julio Cortazar, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, or others. She even gave me a copy of one of her favorite books, “Los Ojos del Perro Siberiano.”

One of my favorite of these pieces of literature is a poem called “Aprendiendo” [It’s attributed to Jorge Luis Borges, but that’s debated]. Here are a few of the best lines:

“Y uno aprende a construer todos sus caminos en el hoy, porque el terreno de mañana es demasiado inseguro para planes, y los futures tienen una forma de caerse en la mitad…

Con el tiempo entiendes que los verdaderos amigos son contados, y que el que no lucha por ellos tarde o temprano se verá rodeado solo de amistades falsas.

Con el tiempo aprendes que las palabras dichas en un momento de ira pueden seguir lastimando a quien heriste, durante toda la vida…

Con el tiempo aprendes que disculpar cualquiera lo hace, pero perdonar es solo de almas grandes.

Con el tiempo te das cuenta de que cada experiencia vivida con cada persona es irrepetible…

Con el tiempo aprendes a construer todos tus caminos en el hoy, porque el terreno del mañana es demasado incierto para hacer planes…

Con el tiempo te das cuanta de que en realidad lo mejor no era el future, sino el momento que estabas viviendo justo en ese instante…

Con el tiempo aprenderás que intentar perdonar o pedir perdón, decir que amas, decir que extrañas, decir que necesitas, decir que quieres ser amigo, ante una tumba, ya no tiene ningún sentido.

Pero desafortunadamente, solo con el tiempo…”

It’s hard to do justice to poems by translating, but this one is about learning important life lessons: fighting for real friendships, expressing our love and need for people, and living each day to the fullest. Essentially, as the last line says, these things are only learned with time…
We are made for God alone, who can only be pleased when we turn away from ourselves to devote ourselves to Him.

Let us think often that our only business in this life is to please God.

-Brother Lawrence, "The Practice of the Presence of God"

A Dream Come True!

Machu Picchu!




This adventure began right on the tail of the last one (Ecuador). After returning to my home in Barranquilla at 1:30 a.m. on April 16th, I headed back to the airport at 9:00 a.m. to fly back over Ecuador to Lima. There, after meeting up with my friend Andrea and her mom, cousin, and aunt, and a brief (3 hour) night in Lima, we made the short flight to Cusco. At about 14,000 feet above sea level, it’s generally recommended to spend two to three days acclimating to the altitude before embarking on the demanding trek to Machu Picchu. Since we only had about 18 hours, we drank our share of coca leaf tea to ward off adverse effects. The following morning “las chicas” (our team of 5 girls) and our guide Felipe set out for our “Inka Jungle Trek.” Day 1 involved driving through a few villages and higher up into the Andes mountains. There, in the blustery cold and rain, we took off on mountain bikes down a curvy highway. As we descended, the weather improved drastically: the rain let up, the sun came out, and the clouds cleared away. After a descent of 50 kilometers, we took another short van ride to the town of Santa Maria. After a dinner of delicious lomo saltado (sautéed beef strips with rice) we settled into our hostel for the night. On Day 2, we hiked the equivalent of a half marathon. We finished the 10-hour hiking day with tired legs and blistered feet, but the trip was beautiful. Part of it was along a historic Inka trail, which went up and down alongside the Urubamba river. Throughout the course of the day, we saw banana trees, coffee plants, pineapple bushes; we ate bananas picked right off the tree and tasted cuy (roasted guinea pig). Day 3 involved a great adventure: zip-lining 500 feet above the ground! Securely harnessed in, of course, we stepped off the cliff a total of 6 times, flying over the valley and river at a thrilling 65 (can’t remember if it was miles or kilometers!) per hour. Afterwards, on our way to our lunch spot, we encountered a derrumbe (landslide) and had to wait about half an hour for a path to be cleared. As we climbed over the rocky makeshift path, it was a good idea to look neither up (crossing our fingers that no more rocks would come tumbling down) nor down (to the steep drop-off immediately to our left). After lunch, our group divided in half (some took the train to Aguas Calientes, the next village, and the rest of us walked). In Aguas Calientes (literally “hot water” where, to our relief, they have hot showers), we made preparations for the following day (bought bus and entrance tickets to Machu Picchu, etc.). At 4 a.m. on Day 4, we waited in line for the bus, since only the first 400 people to enter the Machu Picchu park would be granted a pass to climb Waynapicchu, the highest peak. At 6:15 we arrived at Machu Picchu and succeeded in receiving the pass. At this point, the mountain on which we stood was covered by clouds; we could only see a few yards ahead of us, and the picture-perfect view was completely obscured. Felipe, our guide, gave us an orientation of Machu Picchu—explaining the history, pointing out the important buildings and recounting their purposes. After a challenging hour-long climb, we reached the peak of Waynapicchu. Though the view was still rather cloudy, it was an amazing feeling to be so high, surrounded by stunning mountains. Finally, by about 11 a.m., the clouds cleared, revealing the stunning beauty of Machu Picchu. Pictures may be impressive, but there are really no words or pictures to describe the breathtaking beauty of this site. For as long as I can remember (or at least since I’ve studied Spanish/Latin America), visiting Machu Picchu has been a dream of mine. I’m so thankful to have had the opportunity to see it come true!


(Las Chicas biking down the Andes mountainside)


(Coca leaves--NOT cocaine. Yuck.)

The following day, in Cusco once again, Andrea and I explored the city (“the belly button of the world,” as the Inkas called it). We wandered up and down the streets, where colonial Spanish buildings are added onto Inka stone foundations. Being Good Friday, we encountered a procession taking place in the plaza.




That night, we boarded a bus for Puno, a city in southern Peru that lies on the shores of Lake Titicaca (the highest navigable lake in the world, shared by Peru and Bolivia). Arriving at 4:30 a.m., we crashed at a hostel for a few hours before venturing out into the city. We joined a tour group to visit some pre-Inka ruins called Sillustani, a group of stone burial towers overlooking a beautiful lagoon. The following day, we went down to the dock where we paid for a day tour of Lake Titicaca’s islands. Rather than going through a tour agency, we bought the passage on a local boat. There were a few other gringos on the boat, but most passengers were Quechua-speaking inhabitants of Taquile island, returning home with heavy sacks of food and pockets, skirts, and hats full of coca leaves (they chewed the stuff as if it were candy)! We first stopped to see the Uros islands, which are floating reed islands inhabited by Aymara people. A couple hours later we arrived at Taquile, which is a steep, hilly island with houses and farms scattered across it. At the top of the hill were a plaza and some restaurants (where we were served fresh trout caught right from the lake). It was Easter Sunday, and we arrived in time to see the locals leaving the Catholic chapel, crossing the plaza, and performing a thanksgiving ceremony to Pachamama, or Mother Earth. It was interesting to see the incorporation of indigenous beliefs with the Catholic religion—to the community, participating in both didn’t seem to be a conflict.


(Umayo lagoon from the Sillustani ruins)


(an Aymara woman on the Uros reed island)


(From Taquile Island in Lake Titicaca)

After another night bus ride, a long layover in Lima, and a night in the Bogota airport, I arrived in Barranquilla, rather tired to be starting the work week—but the price was certainly worth it for such an unforgettable adventure!